Women of The Gilded Age

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     The annual May-held Met Gala is a fundraiser for New York’s Met Museum, but in practice is a place where A-list celebrities and fashion designers alike gather to exhibit their innovative interpretations of the theme. This year, “Gilded Glamor and White Tie” was the dress code, calling all attendees to go back in time to channel the fashions of the late 1800s-- the Gilded Age.  In a time where extravagance was social currency and fashion was a marker of one’s success and prosperity, the Gilded Age most certainly reflects today’s scene of the Met Gala, where luxurious, multi-million dollar outfits are not uncommon sight.

     However, frequently lost in our idea of the Gilded Age is the life of ordinary women beyond the lavish parties, social drama, and ornate attire of the uber-wealthy portrayed so heavily in modern depictions. The time period so often associated with “gilded glamor”, was in truth a time of struggle for many women. 

     According to the Bill of Rights Institute, more than 20 million people immigrated to the United States between 1880 and 1920, hailing from places like Southeast Europe and Asia, all in search of the American Dream. But when they arrived on America’s shores, challenges awaited them. Finding work was a priority. Even women, who had been traditionally expected to stay at home, needed to work to make ends meet. Northern Illinois University reports that many “took in homework, such as pieces of clothing to be stitched or assembled for tailor shops or clothing manufacturers.” In fact, the garment industry experienced a huge boom from the sweatshops operated by immigrant women, and Jewish and Italian women made up a substantial portion of the driving force of this growing market. In other words, many of the opulent clothes the wealthiest of women wore during the Gilded Age may have been made by the poorest of women, which is almost all too familiar to the fashion scene today. KnowTheChain’s 2021 Apparel and Footwear Benchmark Report showed the world’s most significant luxury brands were amongst the worst offenders in exploitation in their supply chains, averaging a score of 31 out of 100 (on a scale from 0-100, with 100 being the best labor practices). Therefore, even in modern times, the most luxurious of clothes and labels bypass exploited labor and are passed on to the uber-rich.    

     On a lighter note, many women joined efforts to make working life easier. For example, social reform, education, and charity were addressed in women’s clubs. African-American Lucy Parsons, a Chicago labor activist, organized the Chicago Working Women’s Union. Ida B. Wells broke gender norms by becoming a significant journalist who exposed the inequalities black Americans faced. But overall, there was a gradual push for female independence, especially empowerment by providing them(including immigrants) the opportunity to advance in society themselves. There was a rise in women’s colleges and educated women, who started to see themselves in professional opportunities and roles.  

     In short, an entire time period should never be reduced to one social class or group of people; it should not restrict those who are overlooked, especially women.